Before I go on to Joan's advice, I want to say a few words about the list, and her in particular. I first joined the Knit List about a year ago, around the same time I discovered knit blogs and the wealth of information available online that I was missing out on. After a while, I found it difficult to keep up with the volume of mail generated on the list, and I started to slip behind on my reading. So I switched to the digest format, which made it a bit more manageable. Now I can just scan through the digests and only read a selected posts. But I always read responses to problems written by Joan. The woman is a genius. I seriously don't think there's anything knitting related that she hasn't tried. Mr. Google tells me that she teaches a lot of knitting workshops – I hope to have the chance to take a class from her some day.

So, when I had my little(!) curling problem, I wrote to the Knit List in hopes that Joan would weigh in on my problem. And that she did. So completely, in fact, that I wrote her and asked her permission to reproduce her answer. So, with permission, here is Joan's response to my problem:

First, get your scarf thoroughly wet. That means putting a bit of
sudsing agent into the water to break down the surface tension.
Submerge it and squish the water through. Rinse and roll in towels
or spin out in a washing machine.

You can improve the drape and hand by stretching them out during the
drying process. I like to use blocking wires as it's easier to
thread them up the sides than to pin out every quarter inch or so to
prevent a scalloped edge. Then spread the wires as far apart as you
can, making the fabric taut and pin out. Leave until thoroughly dry.

Now Leanne did use blocking wires, but I couldn't tell from the blog
how much they were stretched during the drying, so that could be
something to remedy.

If that still doesn't cure the problem, then a heavy steaming is your
remaining recourse. That will flatten out the sts considerably, but
that usually doesn't matter much with lace.

In the future make sure that scarves are knitted at a looser gauge as
that improves the drape and minimizes curling.

Another option is to make the lace garter-based. That means knitting
all the wrong side row sts. Now ordinarily garter would obscure the
lace but a stretch-blocking will flatten out the garter quite a bit
so that it doesn't interfere with the patt looks, yet keeps it from
curling. Most of the ethnic shawls are knit this way – Shetland,
Faroese and Orenburg, so there is historic precedent for using it as
well as practicality.

Alternately make the garter borders wider. To prevent a vertical
line separating the garter from the stockinette center patt, vary the
# of sts that are garter. One could follow the ogee-like shape of
the outermost complete motifs and keep all sts outside of this in
garter. That means that instead of having half motifs at each side,
those portions are also kept in garter. Same thing at the top and
bottom.

My first step was to try re-blocking it, as I suspected (hoped?)  that my problem was simply that I hadn't blocked aggressively enough. This had been my first time blocking with wires. And instead of blocking lace on the bed as I usually do, I had used a blanket on the floor. Although this resulted in not hearing "Why does the bedroom smell like a wet llama?" (It's alpaca, silly), it did mean that I couldn't pin quite as aggressively as I normally would. 

I re-blocked, and pulled those wires apart as far as I possibly could (on a piece of foam, so I could pin easily)

When I unpinned it, this seemed to do the trick. It was certainly more open than it had been. I wore it around the house for a while, to see what would happen. It has a bit of curve to it, but in a nice drapey way – not in a "I'm turning into a tube whether you like it or not" way. I tried to get a picture of it on me, but with could get one I was happy with (the problem was with the model, not the scarf!) Here it is modelled by a lamp.

I have now worn it a couple of times to work, and still no coiling. Yippee! It was bad blocking after all. Whew! 

I still may try Joan's other suggestion of knitting it as a garter stitch base instead of a stockinette stitch base (knitting the wrong side row stitches instead of purling them), to see how it looks. I plan to make at least one more of these, so I will try that for a couple of repeats, block it to see how I like it, and then either continue like that or rip it out and start over. 

Meanwhile, if you make this, be sure to block the bejesus out of it. 

Here's the pattern. There's also a link on the sidebar to the pdf, or you can get it here. As always, I knit from the chart, but I wrote it out line by line for those who don't or can't use charts. I have test-knit the chart so there shouldn't be any errors in it (though there could be). I double-checked the written instructions, but I've not knit from them, so please please please if you knit from the written instructions and anything seems odd, please let me know and I'll compare to the chart and fix it. As each right-side row has an increase (in the first half) or a decrease (in the 2nd half) at each end, I've included the number of stitches on each row to make it easier to see where you are.

Please email me about any errors/questions/comments at patterns(at)toknitisdivine(dot)ca or leave a comment.

Edit: If you printed out the written instruction prior to Mar 4, 2007, please note that there was an error on Line 14. Thanks to Ramona for pointing that out to me!

Diagonal Ripple Dishcloth

Materials: 100% Cotton, worsted weight.

Appropriate sized needles.

Cast on 4 stitches

1. k1, p2, k1
2. k4
3. k1, m1, k2, m1, k1 (6 stitches)
4. k1, p4, k1
5. k1, m1, k4, m1, k1 (8 stitches)
6. k1, p2, k2, p2, k1
7. k1, m1, k1, p4, k1, m1, k1 (10 stitches)
8. k1, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k1
9. k1, m1, p2, k4, p2, m1, k1 (12 stitches)
10. k3, p6, k3
11. k1, m1, k4, p2, k4, m1, k1 (14 stitches)
12. k1, p4, k4, p4, k1
13. k1, m1, p1, (k2, p2) twice, k2, p1, m1, k1 (16 stitches)
14. k1, p1, k4, p4, k4, p1, k1
15. k1, m1, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2, m1, k1 (18 stitches)
16. k2, p6, k2, p6, k2
17. k1, m1, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, m1, k1 (20 stitches)
18. k1, p2, (k2, p2) 4 times, k1
19. k1, m1, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, m1, k1 (22 stitches)
20. k1, p5, k2, p6, k2, p5, k1
21. k1, m1, k1, p2, (k6, p2) twice, k1, m1, k1 (24 stitches)
22. k1, p1, (k4, p4) twice, k4, p1, k1
23. k1, m1, p2, (k2, p2) 5 times, m1, k1 (26 stitches)
24. k3, p4, (k4, p4) twice, k3
25. k1, m1, p1, (k6, p2) twice, k6, p1, m1, k1 (28 stitches)
26. k1, p4, (k2, p6) twice, k2, p4, k1
27. k1, m1, k3, p4, (k4, p4) twice, k3, m1, k1 (30 stitches)
28. (k2, p2) 7 times, k2
29. k1, m1, p4, (k4, p4) 3 times, m1, k1 (32 stitches)
30. k1, p2, (k2, p6) 3 times, k2, p2, k1
31. k1, m1, (k6, p2) 3 times, k6, m1, k1 (34 stitches)
32. k3, p4, (k4, p4) 3 times, k3
33. k1, m1, k1, p2, (k2, p2) 7 times, k1, m1, k1 (36 stitches)
34. k1, p3, (k4, p4) 3 times, k4, p3, k1
35. k1, m1, k4, p2, (k6, p2) 3 times, k4, m1, k1 (38 stitches)
36. k1, p1, (k2, p6) 4 times, k2, p1, k1
37. k1, m1, p4, (k4, p4) 4 times, m1, k1 (40 stitches)
38. k3, p2, (k2, p2) 8 times, k3
39. k1, m1, p1, (k4, p4) 4 times, k4, p1, m1, k1 (42 stitches)
40. (k2, p6) 5 times, k2
41. k1, m1, k3, p2, (k6, p2) 4 times, k3, m1, k1 (44 stitches)
42. k1, p3, (k4, p4) 4 times, k4, p3, k1
43. k1, m1, (k2, p2) 10 times, k2, m1, k1 (46 stitches)
44. k5, p4, (k4, p4) 4 times, k5
45. k2, p2, (k6, p2) 5 times, k2
46. k1, p5, (k2, p6) 4 times, k2, p5, k1
47. k1, k2tog, k2, p4, (k4, p4) 4 times, k2, ssk, k1 (44 stitches)
48. k1, p2, (k2, p2) 10 times, k1
49. k1, k2tog, p1, (k4, p4) 4 times, k4, p1, ssk, k1 (42 stitches)
50. (k2, p6) 5 times, k2
51. k1, k2tog, k1, p2, (k6, p2) 4 times, k1, ssk, k1 (40 stitches)
52. k1, p1, (k4, p4) 4 times, k4, p1, k1
53. k1, k2tog, (k2, p2) 8 times, k2, ssk, k1 (38 stitches)
54. k1, p4, (k4, p4) 4 times, k1
55. k1, k2tog, k3, p2, (k6, p2) 3 times, k3, ssk, k1 (36 stitches)
56. k3, p6, (k2, p6) 3 times, k3
57. k1, k2tog, p1, (k4, p4) 3 times, k4, p1, ssk, k1 (34 stitches)
58. k1, p1, (k2, p2) 7 times, k2, p1, k1
59. k1, k2tog, p4, (k4, p4) 3 times, ssk, k1 (32 stitches)
60. k1, p2, (k2, p6) 3 times, k2, p2, k1
61. k1, k2tog, k4, p2, (k6, p2) twice, k4, ssk, k1 (30 stitches)
62. k1, p4, (k4, p4) 3 times, k1
63. k1, k2tog, k1, p2, (k2, p2) 5 times, k1, ssk, k1 (28 stitches)
64. (k4, p4) 3 times, k4
65. k1, k2tog, (k6, p2) twice, k6, ssk, k1 (26 stitches)
66. k1, p3, (k2, p6) twice, k2, p3, k1
67. k1, k2tog, p4, (k4, p4) twice, ssk, k1 (24 stitches)
68. k3, p2, (k2, p2) 4 times, k3
69. k1, k2tog, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, ssk, k1 (22 stitches)
70. k1, p5, k2, p6, k2, p5, k1
71. k1, k2tog, p1, k6, p2, k6, p1, ssk, k1 (20 stitches)
72. (k4, p4) twice, k4
73. k1, k2tog, p2, (k2, p2) 3 times, ssk, k1 (18 stitches)
74. k1, p2, k4, p4, k4, p2, k1
75. k1, k2tog, k1, p2, k6, p2, k1, ssk, k1 (16 stitches)
76. k1, p6, k2, p6, k1
77. k1, k2tog, k3, p4, k3, ssk, k1 (14 stitches)
78. (k2, p2) 3 times, k2
79. k1, k2tog, p2, k4, p2, ssk, k1 (12 stitches)
80. k3, p6, k3
81. k1, k2tog, k2, p2, k2, ssk, k1 (10 stitches)
82. k1, p2, k4, p2, k1
83. k1, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k1 (8 stitches)
84. k1, p6, k1
85. k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1 (6 stitches)
86. k1, p1, k2, p1, k1
87. k1, k2tog, ssk, k1 (4 stitches)
88. k1, p2, k1 

Cast off.

Weave in ends.

I made Mom a burgundy one, but since I didn't get a good picture, I made myself one in green just so I could get a picture to show . How's that for dedicated blogging! And in case you want one of your very own (and you're not my mother – because if you are, you already have one), I wrote up the pattern. If you prefer to work from a chart (like I do), you can find it here.

SMILEY FACE DISHCLOTH

Materials: 100% Cotton, worsted weight and appropriate needles

Cast on 33 stitches

Rows 1 to 6: k1, p1 across row, end with k1

7: (k1, p1) 5 times, k13, (p1, k1) 5 times

8: (k1, p1) 4 times, k1, p15, k1, (p1, k1) 4 times

9: (k1, p1) 4 times, k17, (p1, k1) 4 times

10: (k1, p1) 3 times, k1, p19, k1, (p1, k1) 3 times

11: (k1, p1) 3 times, k21, (p1, k1) 3 times

12: (k1, p1) twice, k1, p23, k1, (p1, k1) twice

13: (k1, p1) twice, k10, (p1, k1) twice, p1, k10, (p1, k1) twice

14: k1, p1, k1, p9, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p9, k1, p1, k1

15: (k1, p1) twice, k7, p1, k1, p1, k5, p1, k1, p1, k7, (p1, k1) twice

16: k1, p1, k1, (p7, k1, p1, k1) 3 times

17: (k1, p1) twice, k5, p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, p1, k5, (p1, k1) twice

18: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1, p11, k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1

19: (k1, p1) twice, k3, p1, k1, p1, k13, p1, k1, p1, k3, (p1, k1) twice

20: k1, p1, k1, p27, k1, p1, k1

21: repeat row 19

22, 24, 26: repeat row 20

23, 25, 27: (k1, p1) twice, k25, (p1, k1) twice

28: k1, p1, k1, p10, (k1, p1) 3 times, k1, p10, k1, p1, k1

29: (k1, p1) twice, k12, p1, k12, (p1, k1) twice

30: k1, p1, k1, p11, k1, p3, k1, p11, k1, p1, k1

31: (k1, p1) twice, k11, p1, k1, p1, k11, (k1, p1) twice

32: k1, p1, k1, p13, k1, p13, k1, p1, k1

33, 35, 37, 39: repeat row 23

34, 36, 38: repeat row 20

40: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p3, k1, p7, k1, p3, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1

41: (k1, p1) twice, k5, p1, k1, p1, k9, p1, k1, p1, k5, (p1, k1) twice

42: k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p11, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1

43: repeat row 41

44: (k1, p1) twice, (k1, p3) twice, k1, p7, k1, (p3, k1) twice, (p1, k1) twice

45: repeat row 11

46: repeat row 10

47: repeat row 9

48: repeat row 8

49: repeat row 7

50 to 55: repeat row 1 to 6

Cast off. Weave in ends.

Smile.

Finished Measurements

7" x 43" pre-blocked

8" x 66" blocked

Materials Yarn: Misti Alpaca Lace Weight yarn, Red – 1 skein (yes, it really did only take 1 skein, with some left over!)

Needles: 2.5mm needles (I used Knitpicks US1 needles, which are 2.5mm. You could always use 2.25mm (a standard US1) or 2.75mm (a standard US2)

As this is the first design I've ever written up, I'd love to hear what you think!